Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Friday, 30 June 2017

New Bespoke Shoes

Hello, once more, dear readers. Both old timers and newbies, we salute you!

We have had a busy week making some rather handsome new shoes and boots which will be worn for pursuits carried out in the countryside in all weathers, so they had to be robust, rugged and weather proof. The kind of boots that laugh in the face of rain and mud. If any of you went to Glastonbury last week, prepare to be jealous

First down the runway is a pair shoes which combine gripping performance with rugged good looks

We used a Tempesti Safari veg tanned calf leather which we waterproofed with camel dubbin and then finished with a light lustre of polish. It created a really beautiful depth to the colour. And it will age beautifully too

For performance, we did a Norwegian welt...

And a bellows tongue in olive green kid - quite a challenge with the patterns!

And used a rubber stick on sole and top piece for extra weather proofing and grip.

We are really pleased with them

Next down the track is a pair of stalking boots in a Weinheimer grain calf. We love this leather and we put a few layers of dubbin on the inside of the upper before we lasted them. This sacrifices a bit of breathability for some water resistance which was more important in this case.

Again, we had a specific brief to combat the elements, so we sewed them with a storm welt - a real one cut from some Bakers belly, not the stuff you buy by the metre.

And we put a full bellows tongue in made from goat suede which we have sprayed with waterproof spray. The leather for a bellows tongue needs to be soft so that you can fold it inside the boot, but softer leathers tend to be less weather proof so the spray really helps

Again,we used a stick on commando sole and heel top piece. As well as grip, these raise the boot further off the ground to protect from mud and puddles

We are very happy with them and hope you like them too.

We left the top of the storm welt unfudged which is not the traditional way to do it, but we think it gives a cleaner finish to the boots.

And that is it for this post. We hope you have a great week and until next time, happy shoemaking!