Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Saturday, 2 August 2014

Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes London - Day 5 (last day)

The last day of the Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course and the students worked hard to complete their Derby linings by the end  of the day.

The secret to well fitting linings? Slotting...
making small slits in the pattern to allow the layers of leather to sit and to be stitched smoothly together.

The following sequence shows a student slotting the lining pattern for a Derby brogue in order to avoid bulk and add strength when the upper is sewn together (closed).

Et voila! The Derby lining...and upper!

The time flew and they were ready for a glass of bubbly and cake by 5.30pm to celebrate their hard work. Thank you to a wonderful group and to Fiona for teaching the invaluable foundations of good pattern making.That's all for now until next week, when the Intensive Shoemaking course will be under way. Until then happy shoemaking!

Friday, 1 August 2014

Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 4 - August 2014

Day 4 of the Carréducker Pattern Making Course for bespoke shoes saw the students complete the lining pieces for the Oxford they were doing yesterday and check that they fit the last well.

Once the Oxford was finished, they moved on to the final style to be covered this week, the Derby.

The same procedures were followed with taping the last followed by drawing the style; making the forme; mean forme ; and standard.

The final pattern pieces were put together and checked against the last.

Friday is the final day where the students will finish the lining pieces of the Derby and then have time to work on their own designs, based on everything that they have learned this week.

Until then, happy shoemaking!

Wednesday, 30 July 2014

Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 3 - August 2014

The midway point is here. How quickly a week flies by.

This morning started with our students flattening the forme of the Oxford they are working on.

This was followed by making the master standard and then the sectional or pattern pieces, including the overlays and underlays (allowances).

They then put the pieces together and checked how they fitted on the last.

Now this may sound straightforward but this is a lot of work because pattern making for bespoke shoes is complex and technical with a lot of input from Fiona, including demonstrations. And hard work from the students of course!

The class is fast moving and fun and the students are encouraged to collaborate and share knowledge - a great way to learn.

Tomorrow they will finish the Oxford by doing the linings and then move on to the final style they will be tackling this week, the Derby.

Until then, happy shoemaking!

Tuesday, 29 July 2014

Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes Course - London Day 2 - August 2014

And so to day two of the Carréducker Pattern Making Course 2014.

Our Beautiful Sunny Classroom

This morning saw our students finish the linng pattern pieces for the court shoe they started yesterday.

The Lining Pieces Of The Court Shoe

As a side project, they then designed a slipper which is very similar to a court shoe. If there is time at the end, they will cut the pattern pieces.

A discussion about classic styles; shoe terminology; the parts of the shoe/pattern; top line treatments; seam treatments; and allowances.

The Oxford
The second style to be learned is the Oxford.

This began with taping up the last and drawing on the style.

Fiona's Sample Oxford

More tomorrow.

Until then, happy shoemaking!

Monday, 28 July 2014

Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course - London Day 1 - August 2014

The Education Space all set up and ready for this summer's
Pattern Making for Bespoke Shoes course.

What a lovely start to the course, welcoming old friends from previous courses and new shoe enthusiasts who will be taking on the intensive shoe making challenge next week and in October.

It was a busy first day. 

Fiona first took the group through the various parts of the last - looking at the pros and cons of wooden vs plastic lasts - and provided an overview of shoe making and the different styles of shoe.
The essential tools of pattern making
During the day, the group learned how to tape up their lasts...

The journey from the forme to the pattern for a court shoe
- How to draw a court (pump) shoe design onto the taped last

Tables covered in ' work in progress'
Drawing around the forme to create the standard
- How to take the forme from the last and create a mean forme

The finished pattern pieces
....before finally making the standard that the individual pattern pieces can be taken from.  

Quite a busy first day. Until tomorrow happy shoe making!