Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Friday, 3 May 2013

Tabs On The Upper

Another week, another welt, so to speak. Our New York intensive shoemaking course starts on Monday. We shipped all the materials last week and they are waiting  for us in Willliamsberg. Deborah is flying out tomorrow to set up and get some last minute supplies. I fly out a week today to spend the weekend with my brother and his wife who live in Maine and are driving down to see me. Should be fun. I like my week in New York. Look out for regular posts about the student's progress.

We recently finished a pair of boots for a customer which we particularly like. Our classic Saddle Boot design but done in Madeira blue calf with tan quarters. Really like the sky blue kid lining. Originally we were going to have a patina painted by our Parisian colleague Paulus Bolten, but the customer decided against it at the last minute. Either way the boots would  look amazing, but I can see how, like this, they look is crisp, modern and sleek. I want a pair!

And so to shoemaking. Last week we looked at baggy top edges and this week we are following in a similar vein. If you do your own closing, it is always a great idea to leave tabs of the lining on the top  edge so that you can nail  them to the last to get a nice tight top edge. It s very straightforward and, after the lasts have been pulled, you cut off the tabs with a sharp knife.

The shoes should look like this.

You can do it in a continuous piece like this, or you you can just leave a few sections in the right place. Either way, it really helps to  get the quarters tight against the last while the stiffeners are drying.

And that is it for this week. We hope you have a good week and can put some of our tips into practice.

By the way, we welcome your comments and suggestions, so please feel free to contact us.

Until next week, happy shoemaking!