tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post6137676291618821029..comments2024-03-26T17:36:17.434+00:00Comments on Bespoke Shoes Unlaced : Lasting 3jimmyshoehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08051471340549178353noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-35667895964094358092012-01-04T13:42:21.749+00:002012-01-04T13:42:21.749+00:00Hi Sabs, it depends a lot on the leather. Some lea...Hi Sabs, it depends a lot on the leather. Some leathers are stiffer and less flexible than others. We do sometimes soak the uppers before lasting, but you run the risk of the leather stretching unevenly which can have the effect of altering the fit of the upper on the last. And it can stain the lining if it is natural veg tan. Likewise with a light coloured upper. In general upper leather and water are not good friends. But both options are perfectly acceptable. We avoid the soaking when we can (which is most of the time because of the kind of leather we choose - top quality box calf like Weinheimer). Hope that helps, best, jimmyshoejimmyshoehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08051471340549178353noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-70926982679258097982012-01-03T17:43:01.939+00:002012-01-03T17:43:01.939+00:00I've seen videos on youtube where they have we...I've seen videos on youtube where they have wet the upper before lasting, but I noticed you don't. Is there a difference to the ability of the leather to hold its shape on the last? Or does it make the upper too stiff afterwards?<br />-sabssabshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08481659149488888455noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-47776455278967225462012-01-02T08:04:43.784+00:002012-01-02T08:04:43.784+00:00No channel or feather is cut. Rather a strip or ri...No channel or feather is cut. Rather a strip or rib of folded linen or canvas is glued to the insole. Then the upper and welt are sewn to the canvas.<br /><a href="http://www.fzf.com/Runescape.gold" rel="nofollow">Buy RS Gold</a>Buy Runescape Goldhttp://www.fzf.com/Runescape.goldnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-31906665763054210842011-12-23T04:28:29.525+00:002011-12-23T04:28:29.525+00:00Haha, Thanks Jimmyshoe...I was afraid of that.
Ha...Haha, Thanks Jimmyshoe...I was afraid of that.<br /><br />Happy Holidays and thanks for the help.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-48805046450872649912011-12-22T08:51:24.979+00:002011-12-22T08:51:24.979+00:00Brute force I'm afraid. You can try sliding so...Brute force I'm afraid. You can try sliding something thin and gentle into the heel to loosen the stiffener area, but you just have to pull pull pull.<br />Merry Christmas! Best, jimmyshoejimmyshoehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08051471340549178353noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-47952362318436890972011-12-21T19:24:21.218+00:002011-12-21T19:24:21.218+00:00Please help...How do I get a last out of a shoe if...Please help...How do I get a last out of a shoe if I didn't put any powder in before lasting? Am I dead in the water?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />RichAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-8877319563673270462011-03-14T16:51:46.546+00:002011-03-14T16:51:46.546+00:00Goodyear welted shoes...as they are done today...b...Goodyear welted shoes...as they are done today...begin with thinner and often lower quality insoles. Sometimes (and I would argue, inevitably, these insoles are not even leather).<br /><br />No channel or feather is cut. Rather a strip or rib of folded linen or canvas is glued to the insole. Then the upper and welt are sewn to the canvas.<br /><br />No seam, weld, or joint is any stronger than its weakest component. Since glue is the weakest/critical element in a Goodyear welted shoe, it is not unreasonable to say that Goodyear welted shoes are no better (stronger, long-lasting, reliable, repairable, etc.) than shoes that rely entirely on glue as the principle means of construction.<br /> <br />And glue-on construction is one of the cheapest and most unreliable means of making a shoe.<br /><br />To come back to my earlier point, since the insole is no longer expected to hold a seam or bear a load, the strength and quality of the insole is no longer a central issue. Fiberboard and leatherboard (a form of ground up leather scraps)can and often is substituted as a means to cut production costs and maximize profits. <br /><br />And so it goes across the board...pretty soon it is fiberboard or celastic toe stiffeners rather than leather, then leatherboard heel stacks and so forth. <br /><br />Historically speaking, once this slide starts it is seldom if ever reversed.DWFIInoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-65392763644471311692010-12-21T21:03:51.392+00:002010-12-21T21:03:51.392+00:00Thank you so much Arnold. It means a lot to us to ...Thank you so much Arnold. It means a lot to us to get some feedback.<br />Do you make shoes or thinking about it?<br />Merry Christmas, jimmyshoejimmyshoehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08051471340549178353noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8046771237050008716.post-51597104909123978232010-12-20T07:23:06.345+00:002010-12-20T07:23:06.345+00:00Just wanted to say, you guys take shoemaking to th...Just wanted to say, you guys take shoemaking to the very next level and we love how you share the whole process behind it. Keep doing what you're doing.Arnoldhttp://thecolony.tumblr.comnoreply@blogger.com