Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Friday, 11 January 2019

New and Renew

Welcome back dear shoe folk and a Happy New Year! 

It's the start of a new year again and like many, January is all about new and of course, renew. We've had a swathe of bespoke shoes and desert boots in for repair and as you can see, some of them have been loved and worn for a little longer than we'd like. We're all about sustainability and longevity so they can, and will, be rescued to look as good as new! 

These beautiful brogue Oxfords are seven years old and came in just in time for a re-sole as you can see below. The customer has a distinct wear pattern with the majority of wear to the outside edge and centre. 

Here's how we go about re-soling. 

The old sole with the heel removed and the split lift folded back.

We slice through the sole, well behind the heel breast mark

Then we cut the sole stitches, peel off the worn sole and pull out the old stitches

The shank and cork is usually intact and can be left, although we rasped it smooth here
New soles are cemented in place and re-stitched through the existing holes in the welt

We stamp the sole with our logo 

And then they're all set for heel building

The next pair we will be tackling are over 10 years old and this too is their first re-sole! You can see the difference that three further years of wear makes to the sole and also the customer's completely different wear pattern.

This customer wears quite evenly...

...but after 10 years has worn right through the toe!

Although they're worn through, they're still a great example of just how hard wearing Bakers' oak bark leather is
and how durable handsewn shoes are.

And the final pair are from our ready to wear collection Carreducker London, a pair of desert boots with a natural crepe sole also back for a re-sole ....or should I say a complete re-make! Damp socks gave the game away.

That's it for this week as we gently get back into the swing of things. Until next week, happy shoemaking!