Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Thursday, 1 August 2013

Pattern Making Course - Day 4

As London heats up in its second heat wave of the year - we're at 31 degrees today - the pattern making course is basking in the coolness of our new air conditioner.

(With the first of our summer intensive shoemaking courses starting next week we couldn't have students lasting, welting and heel building in this heat!)

But back to our pattern making group. After the delight (and relief) of seeing their patterns fitting well on the lasts yesterday (see above), today the group went on to develop lining patterns for their Oxfords.

The length of the quarters was slightly reduced to create a pocket for the stiffener and the seam allowances were also slightly reduced so that the lining will fit inside the upper and so that upper/lining seams do not sit on top of each other.

 Finally they created a reverse counter to help the heel to grip well.

And this afternoon they developed a pattern for a Derby shoe.

The full brogue derby is as enduring as the Oxford style and the style also originates from the 19th century.

However the word brogue, was first recorded in 1689. The style is most commonly considered to be derived from a country boot with the holes designed to drain water. The word is thought to derive from brogue (brɡ or brohgmeaning an Irish accent or from the Irish word 'brog' meaning a rough or stout shoe; hence possibly originally meaning "the speech of those who call a shoe a 'brog'."

Anyway, it is a favourite of ours as it emphasises the importance of well balanced proportions.

Until tomorrow, the last day, when the group will be fine tuning all that they have learned this week....happy shoemaking!

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