Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Wednesday, 14 August 2013

London Intensive Shoemaking Course - week 2, Day 9

Today hammers, nails and bits of leather have flown as what once started as several separate bits of leather were been turned into fabulously straight sided (on the whole), flat standing heels!



Straight split lifts were cut, glassed, notched and transformed into heel shapes


 They were pasted and nailed in place around the heels with 20mm nails securing them.


Then the first lift was stuck on top, nailed with three nails and skived.


The second lift quickly followed nailed in a horseshoe shape to secure both layers to the split lift and sole leather.


Finally the heel edges were carefully shaped with a knife and then the separate layers were peened together closing any gaps and forming one solid heel.



The final test was whether the heel would sit flat on the top piece. Further skiving
and hey presto!

 Finally the heels of both shoes were aligned in shape and size...


before the heel breast was cut....curved in some cases and straight in others.


The results of a very hard working and rewarding day...it's not surprising the group are off for a well-earned pint! Until tomorrow when top pieces go on and finishing begins...happy shoemaking!

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