Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Tuesday, 18 November 2008

Stiffeners and Toe Puffs

Oops. Sorry everyone, been bogged down by the minutiae of life.

The intricacies of lasting.

The first thing to do is prepare your stiffeners (no sniggering at the back there) and toe-puffs (oh, grow up!). We start with a piece of oak bark tanned belly and cut them out, followed by careful skiving with my extremely sharp knife. The edges must be skived to nothing and the centres must be strong so that the heel area and toe areas do not collapse. In factory shoes these components are plastic and ready made.



There is a third extra piece of strengthening left to prepare. The side-lining, a piece of thin calf or glace kid which gives support to the line from the counter to the toe puff. It must be skived to nothing on the top edge so that it is not visible through the upper on the finished shoe.
There is a debate as to whether to put them in or not. I used to omit them, as I thought they were superfluous, but I now tend to put them in, especially with a foot with a wide joint. In these cases, the shoe can bulge where the toes are and look unsightly.
I started to learn to make shoes in Spain and there side-linings are not used because of the hot climate. The fewer layers of leather the better. But here in England, this is not an issue.
Every shoemaker I've met has an opinion on this and who knows what the definitive answer is?


Thanks, and happy shoemaking.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

have you tried thin canvas or linen,thats what we used at
HW Poole+sons

Shaun

damaclese2 said...

i know this is an old post but iv been fallowing for a wile. the question i have i think pertains to stifners. if you have a client that gets really deep creases across his joint can you increase the thickness and langth of the toe puff to compensate for this extra hard creasing? or would that be a question of soul thickness? this guys shoes look old in just a few wearings he walks forward on his toe's something awful!
Paul

jimmyshoe said...

No, don't lengthen the toe puff because it will dig into his feet and cause pain (my standard length is 2 1/2" from the feather edge). The thing to do to decrease creasing is to have very well fitting shoes across the vamp which are snug and don't have any spare leather. It's the spare leather which causes the creasing. And good trees help reduce it a little. Hope that helps, jimmyshoe

damaclese2 said...

ok that makes perfict sens. high instep but flat acros the joint. so we need to really test fit well befor proceding to lasting thanks for the info