Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Friday, 21 November 2008

Black Wholecuts

Friday! Already.

We are excited. Lots happened this week. All very embryonic, but you will be the first to know as soon as we have concrete news.

My favourite bespoke shoe, the wholecut. Just about to make one and it's always a pleasure. One piece of leather; one seam. How is it possible? It's the closest the shoemaker gets to alchemy. I think it is the simplest yet most elegant shoe, the quintessence of Englishness.

This model is black with a red lining and made on a very pointed last. It's going to be beautiful handmade bespoke shoe and is destined to be one of our new bespoke samples, so you may see it in our publicity material.

The insole is prepared and it's ready for lasting. The stitches are bigger than normal because it is not going to be worn and does not have to have the usual strength. On a normal shoe, it is 4 stitches to the inch. Or just under. Any smaller and you weaken the insole, which is the core strength of the shoe. If that fails, the shoe will fall apart.

More later.

If you have any shoemaking questions, then please just ask!


Yvonne said...

I've just discovered your blog, and it rocks! The quality! I really appreciate your willingness to share your beautiful work. I was wondering, where did you learn the trade? And also, why is the insole the strongpoint of the shoe? is everything attached to it? I always imagine the insole as being the thin piece of leather with the designer's label on it that always rips out, leaving the inside of the shoe looking ugly?

jimmyshoe said...

Hi Yvonne, thanks for the positive feedback. we both did apprenticeships in the old fashioned way. The insole is handsewn shoes is the basis of the shoe because everything is stitched to it. In a factory shoe, most are glued and it is not as important. Hope that helps, best, jimmyshoe