Friday, 27 January 2012

Life long learning!

Our course has finished and we are gradually settling back into the weekly carreducker routine splitting our time between the studios at Cockpit and Gieves & Hawkes, seeing clients for fittings, taking new orders and finishing shoes.














Chatting through the last two weeks, we realised that we've been teaching our shoemaking courses for over five years (we can't quite believe it)! It's been a learning curve for us as lecturers and we've never let ourselves become complacent.


We always try to improve the notes, teaching methods and our approach every time. In the early days we taught much as we had been taught on our apprenticeships - with very little explanation as to why a process was being done or why it was important. Time was partly to blame, but we were also concerned that explaining everything would actually cause more confusion and might make the process even more daunting.















The feedback from students on the courses has really helped us to improve and try new ways of teaching. It is invaluable in fact (so thank you to everyone over the years who took the time to share their praise and criticisms). The positive comments are obviously much appreciated - "it exceeded our expectations", "the teaching was excellent", " I learned so much" - but the constructive criticism is even more valuable.















After this last course we have realised that we do need to explain even more of what is going on and the whys and wherefores.

So our New Year's resolution (well, end of January resolution) is to do just that on each day of the course, starting in New York - what we are going to be doing, what the aim is and where we need to be by the end of the day. It will never be as a strict as that because students invariably work at different paces or find one part of the process easier or harder than others, but it will give everyone a clear goal for each day and hopefully a better understanding of why things have to be done a certain way.














We will also be adjusting the course outline to emphasise even more just how mentally and physically demanding it is. A "shoemaking boot camp" is one phrase that keeps cropping up and not undeservedly so. (Luckily it is also usually accompanied by "but really, really rewarding")!

We do have a great time on the course and it is universally described as at worst "rewarding" and at best "one of the greatest thing's I've ever done",  but it is no holiday; we work our students hard!











So, you have been warned....but we hope also very much tempted to give it a try! We have a couple of places left for both New York and London so why not join us? In the mean time, look out for some exciting course news next week, but until then happy shoemaking.

Sunday, 22 January 2012

Final Day Of January 2012 Course

And so it all ends, another course over. And everyone finished their shoes - fantastic work all round. It is always nice to get to the last day, pull the shoes and try them on. I think the students get a real sense of pride and achievement having completed such a demanding course. And, believe me, it is very demanding - hard work and challenging new skills to learn.

Here is a selection of some of the things we did on the last day.

Inking The Heel Edge

Melting The Wax On The Heel Edge

Polishing The Natural Sole

Inking The Edges And The Welt

Drying The Soles

Burnishing The Soles

Inking The Edges

Single Lipped Iron On The Heel

Finished Shoes!


Most Of The Proud Students

Plus A Proud Teacher

The Day was finished off with a bottle of bubbly and some delicious cupcakes, followed by a visit to our friends at John Lobb and our workshop at Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row. So, congratulations to all the students, and roll on New York in May and London in August. We still have places left on both courses and the deadline for New York booking is March, so if you are interested, do't hang about. Until next week, happy shoemaking

Friday, 20 January 2012

Week 2 Day 11

After a frenzied day of cajoling and coaxing, we hit our target of setting the edges by 5.30, so well done everyone. It is hard work, but really worth it now as the shoes are taking their final form.

We started off by doing the last bits of rasping we needed to get the final heel shape and edges.

This was followed by glassing and sanding. We used 80, 120 and 240 grit paper to achieve a smooth finish.


Glassing


Glassing

Sanding The Edge



After this we prepared the edges for setting with the edge iron.

This involved gently rasping away the lip on the sole side of the edge. And ploughing off the lip on the welt side. We also passed the fudge wheel round again to really set the stitches well.



This was followed by setting the edges with a hot edge iron after previously wetting and putting on a little soap to lubricate the iron.



Some even got on to glassing and sanding the sole and top piece.



Last day tomorrow. Finishing the soles, inking the shoes, waxing the edges and pulling the lasts. Yippee!

And just a little teaser, what am I going to do with this?


Until tomorrow, happy shoemaking!

Thursday, 19 January 2012

Week 2, Day 10

Week 2, day 10, the final push to the summit.

It's all heels, heels, heels. We have been adding extra heel lifts; cutting the seat; and putting on the top piece. The pace dropped a little this morning, but I am hoping to crack the whip a bit this afternoon and start the finishing process. Now that might sound like it is quick, but, believe me, good finishing takes time (especially because we do not use a machine to do it!).

Here are a selection of shots of what we have been doing today.

Trimming The Top Piece



Trimming The Heel Breast

Nailing The Top Piece


Rasping The Heel Edge
The Happy Class


Friday tomorrow and it will all be about making the shoes look pretty. As they are now, we could pull the lasts and they would function perfectly well as shoes, but they don't look good - they will by Saturday! Until tomorrow, happy shoemaking!

Wednesday, 18 January 2012

Week 2, Day 9

Everyone arrived today with their second shoes stitched which meant that we could get into heel building from the word go. We had a very successful day and the students have caught up considerably. I am more hopeful of finishing both shoes than I was yesterday. Excellent!


Attaching The Split Lift


The Second Lift Goes On With A Row Of Nails

Cutting The Heel Breast

Marking The Heel Breast On Both Shoes


So, dear readers, more tomorrow. We will get the heels finished and move on to finishing. Until then, happy shoemaking.