Thursday, 21 August 2014

Some New Shoes August 2015

Hi guys, it's been a tiring August with teaching our Intensive Shoemaking Course - we are getting old! We hope you enjoyed watching the students progress. Has it inspired any of you to give it a go? We have another Intensive starting in October and a weekly class which takes place on a Monday night from 6 - 9 pm in ten week terms. Details are on our website

I am on my own this week with Madame Shoe in Sark on her annual holiday (it's a tiny island in the English Channel near France and it's where she's from - hence the French name), so I am ever slightly rushed off my feet. Luckily, it's my turn to be away next week - Derbyshire Peaks here I come!

Anyway, here is a selection of recent bespoke shoes which I like, starting with a pair I made for myself - the first new pair I've made myself in ten years. This may seem a little shameful (which it is) but I like to argue that our shoes are so durable that they last that long and more.

They are a saddle Derby made from Woodpecker Autioneer reverse suede (that's the good stuff with proper skin on the reverse, not a split) and Dove St Crispin's Baby Calf which is a lovely veg tanned calf which comes unglazed so you can burnish it yourself. It takes on a lot of sub tones and has a lot of life in it. We have used a lot of it recently and it's our new favourite leather.



These first two are with the leather unburnished. And the next two are after it has been polished.






It's quite an unusual colour combination, but I really love them .

Still with the St Crispins Baby Calf, here is a simple wholecut where the colour does all the talking. It's called London Brick and it's vivid. I love these shoes but am not sure if I would have the courage to wear them. The customer was delighted and wore them to a wedding - I hope he didn't outshine the bride










Last are a pair of burgundy Oxfords, fairly conventional apart from the canary yellow lining. I have a dilemma with burgundy shoes. I really like the leather when I see the skin laid out and this is a particularly nice shade, but when they are being worn (burgundy shoes in general, I mean) there is something about them I don't like. Maybe I should make myself a pair and get over it. It is certainly a very flexible colour and can be worn with most colours of clothing.

The black finish is unusual here as we usually finish burgundy shoes in brown.










And that is all folks. Have a good week and until next time, happy shoemaking!

Monday, 18 August 2014

Carreducker Intensive Shoemaking Course August 2014 Days 10, 11 and 12

And so our brave students started the final push to the summit of their shoe making mountain. With the heels built, they were ready for finishing.

Here are their finishing packs complete with rasps, sanding blocks and various grades of aluminium oxide paper.



Heavy rasping was followed by glassing and then the 3 kinds of paper until a smooth, blemish free finish was achieved on both the heels and the sole edges.




It was Blake's 21st birthday so the cake and champagne was enjoyed a day early. He even had the pleasure of some balloons!


With the sanding done, it came time to set the edges. Here are a selection of the tools of choice.




The final stage is inking and polishing, starting with the soles.




Last of all, late on Saturday afternoon, they pulled the lasts on the lasting jack and tried the shoes on. The moment of truth, as it were. Because the lasts are standard sizes, some fitted well and others required a bit of tweaking, but we managed to get a decent fit for everyone. Of course, if you give us enough time in advance, you can have a bespoke pair of lasts to work on if you decide to do the course.



What a sense of achievement for everyone. It really is something to have made a pair of shoes by hand in two weeks. All the students were very happy with their hard work and results. Well done to all of them from Deborah and myself. You guys were a lovely group. Nice work or jo da ho ho (spelling?) in Cantonese.





If you would like to try your hand at shoe making or pattern making with Carr├ęducker, our next courses are in October 2014 and January 2015. Get in touch or look at the website

http://carreducker.com/shoemaking-courses

We will be setting exact dates for 2015 in September and will announce them here and on the website.

Until next time, happy shoe making!

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Carreducker Intensive Shoemaking Course August 14 - Days 7, 8 and 9

And so we move into the second week and our intrepid students have finished the welting and moved onto the soles. Their shoes are really looking like shoes now!

Monday saw them finish any welting not done on the rest day and get their shanks and cork filler in.






After shaping the shanks and cork to achieve a gently domed surface, the students trimmed their welts in preparation for attaching the soles.

These were glued on and trimmed in readiness for stitching by hand.

Of course before this was attempted, the channel (which hides the stitches on the underside) had to be cut. Much fun was had by all!






After much hard work and effort, everyone finished the soles and we moved on to heel building.

First off we made the split lift or rand.



Hammering the split lift into a horseshoe shape

Skiving the plit lift.
Today saw us attaching the split lifts and the two heel lifts; shaping the heel with the knife; peening with the French hammer; cutting the seats and, for some of them, cutting the heel breasts.







You will see how the heels progress in the final exciting installment of our coverage of the 2014 August Intensive Shoemaking Course.

Until then, happy shoemaking!

Saturday, 9 August 2014

Carreducker Intensive Shoe Making course; August 2014 Days 4 - 6

The students are a lovely bunch but gradually the task ahead is dawning on them. Energy levels are already suffering and so is concentration. Sometimes however many times you say something it just won't go in!

Lasting linings and toe puffs
 
Making threads ready for welting

Threads twisted and waxed ready for welting

The Zen of welting - calmly, quietly getting on with it

Concentration

...and quiet.
But it's already Saturday and we are half way through the course. Welting is finally finished. Today was pushing pushing pushing to get the shanks and cork on and welts trimmed.

 
 
But still no soles on. They're cutting it fine, so fingers crossed for trouble-free soling on Monday. 

 
And now it's time for a well-earned drink in the sunshine...for the group and me! 
Until next week, happy shoemaking!

Wednesday, 6 August 2014

Carr├ęducker Intensive Shoemaking Course, August 2014, Days 1, 2, and 3

Welcome back, dear readers.

These courses are coming thick and fast. Hot on the heels of our very successful Pattern Making Course for bespoke shoemaking, comes our well established Intensive Shoemaking Course. Two weeks of blood (ocasionally), sweat (often) and tears (not in public, at least).

This year we have students from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Portugal, the USA and England. Unusually, we have only one woman. It is a lively and happy class.



We started on Monday with sharpening knives - a difficult but essential skill.



The students also cut out and skived the stiffeners and toe puffs - always popular!

They also cut out, soaked and blocked their insoles.





Day 2 saw them continue with the skiving and prepare the holdfast/feather with their (mostly)sharp knives.








More skiving of stiffeners and toe puffs was done at various intervals during the day ready for the lasting process on Day 3.

Lasting, where the upper finally goes onto the last and things begin to look like shoes. Today they lasted the siffener around the heel and started the process of lasting the lining on the fore part in readiness for the toe puffs tomorrow.





A great three days which saw our intrepid would be shoemakers take their first steps on a long and beautiful road. They are a bit tired though!

Until our report on the next three days which will see our students finish lasting; make threads; and hand welt their shoes, happy shoemaking!